From leaving Ko Tao, Cass and i headed to Ko Pha Ngan for our next stop. Ko Pha Ngan is probably one of the most notable destinations on the infamous Banana pancake trail (a term given to the well trodden and constantly growing routes around South East Asia travelled by backpackers and tourists), predominantly for its full moon parties on Haad Rin beach. Starting off as a small birthday bash by a couple of backpackers in the mid-eighties, it gathered attention and momentum and now reaches numbers of around 30,000 people - foreign and local, every full moon. With our stay on the island coinciding with May's full moon, it seemed only logical to pay Haad Rin a visit!
Arriving at the port in Thong Sala, we were greeted by a taxi which was run on behalf of our resort. As it was completely unexpected (and free!) we had no qualms about waiting a few minutes for a second taxi while the first one took their full load away. The local vendors saw this as an ideal opportunity to convince us that their resort was much better! Our resort, Sunset Cove, had been recommended to us by a friend who'd stayed there earlier in the year. The location on the west-coast, as far away from Haad Rin as geographically possible, acted as a deterrent for any hardcore ravers or party animals and ensured a peaceful nights sleep for the rest of us! As the taxi pulled up outside the resort, we were greeted with a handshake and a pineapple juice, and let through a maze of wooden platforms set into a scene of vivid green plants and vines. The occasional passing car was easily masked by the noise of chirping crickets and the splashing of the tide against the restaurants wooden terrace. The setting couldn't be any more different from the crammed budget accommodation of Ko Tao despite only being 50 Baht (£1) more expensive each night!
The room itself was spacious. A double bed, fridge, dvd player, television, security box, air conditioning, front decking with table and chairs, and a partially external bathroom. While the bathroom had four walls and a roof there was a gap, around 15 inches, at the top of the wall acting as ventilation for the area. This also ensured that the bathroom was twice as hot as the air conditioned sleeping quarters, and played havoc with you getting out of the shower!
The three days at the resort were spent relaxing by the infinity pool, watching the boats and fishermen wading in the surf, drinking lime soda and topping up the tan. The nights were spent in the restaurant, watching dvd's in the room, and of course at the full moon party. A taxi ride from the resort to the other side of the island cost us 200 Baht each and took about 15 minutes, but was more than worth it considering the luxurious aura of the resort, and the price of the room. You'd be pushed to find similar accommodation for double that on the other side of the island. Coming from outside of the Haad Rin area, we also had to pay a 100 Baht entry fee for the party which pays for the morning after clean-up operation and the manning of the beach by police and private security.
When we finally made it through the dozens of arriving taxi's and bucket-sellers (drinks at the party were sold in plastic buckets, just to make sure you really enjoy yourself), we were met by thousands of already wasted partygoers, neon lights, UV paint stands and, synonymous with alcohol in Thailand; fire. Anyone talented (or drunk) enough was able to partake in a plethora of dangerous party games. Fire Poi, Fire Limbo, Fire Jump Rope, Fire breathing. You name it, you can get burnt doing it.
The atmosphere was... schizophrenic. Pounding drum and bass soundsystems were placed next to Rock music speakers, which in turn were next to cheesy 90's dance music. Independent on where you stood, the mishmash of high hats and snares was guaranteed to be completely out of time and enough to make you think that you need another bucket of SangSom and Coke. As the night went on, more and more boats arrived on the shores of the beach bringing more and more ravers destined to end their night covered in UV paint and spilt SangSom. The party itself continues well into daybreak, with many people going back to their hostels for a few hours sleep and returning to see it through til the last songs just before lunchtime. Cass and i however, were happy with seeing it through until about 3a.m. before we returned to our room.
Leaving Ko Pha Ngan meant two things; that our Thailand trip was entering the third and final phase, and that we had a long day of traveling ahead of us. This time, opting for the slightly faster Lomprayah Catamaran as opposed to the ferry, we left Ko Pha Ngan for Chumphon. The journey was noticably quicker to Bangkok than from Bangkok, trimming a further hour or so off of our journey; mainly because of the efficiency of Loprayah's large scale operations. Leaving at 9a.m., we arrived in Bangkok almost dead on 8p.m. A cheap and cheerful microwave meal from Tesco and a pre-booked night's stay in old faithful Lub D assured a good nights sleep before our flight to Chiang Mai the following day.
Nothing highlights the cultural and financial differences of Thailand better than the advertisements and articles of an in-flight magazine. One one page, spacious top-end condominiums are advertised for anyone looking to invest in Thailand's islands booming residential industry while the opposing page shows a poor local coconut farmer with a description on his long hours, low pay and poor health. Turn the page and Thailand's top Boutique resorts cleave their way through stories of street vendors and tradition. Though it seems the boom is not solely restricted to the Thai borders - Seam Reap in Cambodia, primarily used as a stay for visitors to the temples of Angkor Wat, now boasts two high end shopping malls in magazine adverts aimed at western travellers. It makes you question what next stop on the Banana pancake trail will supernova, crushing its unique identity under the enormous strain of its own popularity.
Our arrival in Chiang Mai wasn't any more eventful than any other airport arrivals lounge. The only difference was the highly anticipated reunion of Cassie and her brother, Dan. I'll admit that it was reassuring to see a familiar face after several weeks away. After a quick introduction and some negotiations in Thai with a taxi driver, we were driven to Dan's house in a large residential complex just northeast of Chiang Mai centre. This is where home will be until we depart for Australia. And what a home it is! 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and an en suite, kitchen, dining room, living room, and a reception area, with a large gated drive and garden. Oh, and a 3 month old Boxer puppy, too! As of yet, it hasn't been named so suggestions are welcome. I'm pushing for Karma, but Qi and Chakra are both strong contenders, as is No Name!
Well i managed to write a fair bit about nothing so that should keep the masses content until the next chapter. I'll attempt to get one last update in from Chiang Mai before Australia while the internet connection is free and private! Bye for now!
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