All the people, so many people...

Sawat-dee readers!

So you've come back for seconds, huh? I'm flattered. It has been a few days since the last update, and i've posted most of my pictures on Facebook so if you've been keeping an eye open there you'll have seen much of our activities already.

Last time round, Bangkok was very hit and miss with me. I loved certain elements of it, but hated it for the very same reasons. The hustle and bustle of the street vendors and homeless people gave a sense of authenticity that is often hidden from the western world in other Asian cities. See: Beijing.

See also: Shanghai.

See also: Osaka.

See also: Tokyo.

Yet at the same time this brutal honesty is emotionally draining. The relentless hounding from tuktuk drivers, taxi drivers, tailors, street vendors, beggars and massage girls can be overwhelming. The only way of dealing with it is to wear blinkers, or learn a simple thai phrase; Mai ow. Simply translates to I don't want! Saying it over and over again may make you feel a little feline but it nips any hassle in the bud, and prevents an onslaught of one-sided haggling from the seller trying to interest you in 10 baht tours or 3 piece suits.

However if haggling is more your thing, there are a couple more phrases which may be beneficial. Firstly, gee baht? which means how much? It may seem simple, but opening any sort of negotiations in Thai will almost certainly get you a cheaper starting price. Once you have this starting price, halve it. Thai vendors love to haggle so don't settle on any price that they give you, and when you think you've reached a stalemate say Lot noi dai mai?; can you make it any cheaper? You might be pushing your luck but skimming that extra 20 baht off of each tuktuk ride will pay for your food that evening.

Which leads me to Suan Lum Night Bazaar. Officially, the lease for the bazaar ended in 2006 and all vendors were told to pack up and move on. This was not the case. The food halls and markets are still as functioning as they were when i visited in 2007. The only noticeable difference was the nearby appearance of a large grey building with a concrete perimeter wall, presumably office buildings or high end apartments.

The market itself has a strange way of operating. First, you trade in your baht for tickets. Then you trade in your tickets for food. Then you trade in your excess tickets for baht again! Each stall in the night market offers their own take on Thai and asian food, while there are a few catering specifically for westerners. One stall offered german sausages of all shapes and sizes, another provided pizza, while burger and chips was even on the menu at another. With the large variety of stalls, the chances of finding a bargain is increased. Cass and i managed to eat a belly full of different dishes for under £2.50 each, including drinks. Though fresh lobster or shrimp, hand-picked and cooked to order will cost you anywhere up to £5 (250 Baht).

If you dont feel in the mood for food then the night market is a great place to pick up knock-off items and tacky tourist gifts, or you can sit and enjoy the entertainment which is usually western songs warbled by young Thai's. Personally, it doesn't get any better than eating Khao Moo Krob while listening to the heartfelt notes of Ren a Man lub a Rooman...!

Despite the intensity of Bangkok you can still find solace in the heart of the city. One hundred and forty acres of it, in fact.

Lumphini park is a place unlike anywhere else in Bangkok. As well as providing serenity for those that seek it, the park offers a habitat for thousands of animals inside the cities walls of concrete and glass. In just a short morning walk, Cass and i found ourselves amongst birds, beetles and bayawak; or as they're more commonly known in the west - Monitor lizards. Even at 7 in the morning, the park was as animated with human activity as it was with the animals. As we entered through the park gates we were greeted by a Buddhist monk in his orange-brown robes and were immediately transported into a world of Tai Chi and morning joggers. Swarms of middle-aged women gathered and ran together at a gentle pace (presumably discussing the Thai equivalent of Eastenders or Coronation Street) while the occasional individual would sprint past trying intensely to beat their personal best for a lap of the 2.5km circuit. We decided a brisk stroll would be enough for us in this heat and humidity.

The tranquil waters of Lumphini Park was enough to attract us back a today for a second time, as was the bright lights, cheap food and karaoke-eseque music of Suan Lum. We even managed to take a couple of friends along this time; two guys from Bracknell, and a guy and a girl from Montreal who we met in the hostel. Its always better to share good food with great company. It made the whole experience that much better.

Thats all for now as we've got to pack our bags and get ready as it's our last night in Bangkok. Tomorrow we check out and head overnight to Champon by train where we'll be catching a catamaran across the gulf of Thailand to Ko Tao - Turtle Island. Hopefully the weather will hold out for us as nicely as it did today.

Sawat-dee!

Man who walk through airport turnstile backward going to Bangkok.

So here it is. Part 1. Numero Uno.  The first of (possibly) many entries to come.

I'm writing from my macbook in my room at Lub D; a hostel bang in the middle of downtown Bangkok where the old Royal city meets the new modern Metropolis of sky-trains, shopping centres and tokyo-style fluorescent signs.

The hostel is a great metaphor itself for the clash of old and new. The exterior architecture looks like an old warehouse or factory set-up while the fresh and funky interior, designed by Bangkok's finest, fits perfectly inside. Sliding glass doors, faux concrete walls and corrugated plastic roofing keep the industrial feel without sacrificing the safe, sterile feel that so many travellers look for. Aircon and free Wifi in every room is the icing on the cake.

It has been a few days now and honestly, i dont have too much to talk about. After our 11-hour flight from Heathrow and 6 timezones, our body clocks were thrown so far out of sync that we ended up sleeping for most of our first full day here - venturing out only for drinks and a quick and easy pizza! Not like we could have done much else with the rain. 

The weather has been a challenge, to say the least. We were greeted at the airport by thunder and lightning as our plane landed and the humidity has been a constant 75%, so there have been plenty more storms and monsoon-like downpours. I've been keeping an eye on the forecasts as we wont be heading down to the islands if the storms continue. Instead i'll rearrange our flights and head north to Chiang Mai sooner.

In the meantime, Cass and i are living like locals rather than tourists. So far we've avoided many of the common tourist traps and attractions - partly because of the weather, but mainly because we've been here before. A giant golden Buddha or a Royal temple, glorious they may be, will never be as memorable the second time round. Though i'll confess we did return to Gullivers, an overpriced but comforting bar in a soi off of Thanon Sukhumvit aimed specifically at backpackers missing the comforts of home. I had my first taste (this trip) of authentic pork & chicken Pad Thai, while Cass opted for the more reserved french toast. She's trying to avoid any ham or bacon until the swine flu fuss has diminished. I'm just trying to avoid starving.

Well i hope that wasn't too painful a read for you, and if it was then i hope you're all healed in time for part 2.

Sawat-dee!